I came back to surfing at 47—and it saved my life

👋 Hey, my name is Corina

But I go by Cory. I’m 47 years old, and I live in San Jose, California.

I first tried surfing when I was about 17 years old in a small town called Ciudad Madero in Mexico, on the Gulf of Mexico. For reasons I don’t really remember, I walked away from it for many years. Life happened. Fear happened. I stopped listening to that part of me.

Finally, in January 2024, something pulled me back. I came back to surfing at 47. I paddled out again for the first time at Linda Mar in Pacifica, and everything changed.

💛 Surfing saved me

When I returned to the ocean, I was in a very dark place. Depression had been slowly taking pieces of me, including my will to live. Surfing didn’t just give me a hobby—it gave me air.

One day, while sitting on the beach watching the King Tides, I noticed surfers moving effortlessly across the water. A kind stranger sat down next to me and started talking. When I shared my quiet wish to surf again, he offered to teach me and guide me back into the water. That simple moment of human kindness became a turning point in my life.

😓 The hard beginning

The beginning was hard. I was out of shape, scared, cold, and unsure of myself. The ocean felt big and unforgiving. But it also felt honest. I was terrified—and at the same time, I felt alive in a way I hadn’t felt in years. I decided then that I would keep going, no matter how difficult it was.

Learning to manage the cold water, the wetsuit, carrying the board, and the constant fear took time. But the love was immediate. I realized I had always loved surfing—I had just never given myself permission to return to it.

At first, I went once or twice a month. Now, I try to surf at least twice a week. I take surf classes whenever I can, go out whenever conditions allow, and I’ve even changed my lifestyle around it—going to the gym to build strength and practicing yoga to help my body move with the waves.

🌅 Home breaks and exploration

Linda Mar is my home break, but as a beginner, I explore other forgiving spots like The Jetty in Half Moon Bay, Capitola, and Cowell’s in Santa Cruz. Occasionally, I challenge myself at bigger spots to see how far I’ve come.

Most days I surf alone or with an instructor. If friends can join, even better. And some days, I don’t even chase waves—I just paddle out, sit on my board, and take it all in: the vast Pacific, seals and sea lions popping up nearby, whales in the distance, birds flying overhead. Those moments feel sacred.

💪 Challenges and setbacks

Surfing challenges me in every possible way. The long drives—at least an hour each way—test my commitment. The cold weather bites. The lineup can feel intimidating. Getting caught inside, being machine-washed and trapped in the spin cycle, is absolutely terrifying.

Last year, I was diagnosed with osteoarthritis in my shoulders, which added another layer of difficulty. Some days hurt more than others—but none of it has been enough to stop me.

There have been scary moments. Once, my leash wrapped around both of my legs, and I couldn’t free myself while the waves dragged me and my board relentlessly. Another time, a friend and I were surfing small waves when a powerful set suddenly rolled in. I managed to paddle out of the way, but she was caught underneath. I lost sight of her for what felt like forever. Panic took over. I searched desperately until I saw other surfers helping her. She was okay—and I paddled back out almost immediately. Fear doesn’t get the final word anymore.

🏄🏻‍♀️ Boards and goals

I started with a used 8’ Wavestorm, but its size and weight were a bit too much for me. Eventually, I switched to a 7’ foam board with a handle that’s easier to carry. As a beginner, it’s harder to catch waves on it, but I love my pink foam board.

I don’t have a favorite surf spot yet—I’m still discovering what feels like home.

I love waves no bigger than four feet. My dream is to surf somewhere warm, where a wetsuit isn’t necessary and the waves roll in long and gentle.

My biggest goal is simple: to surf more often.

🥹 What surfing means

Surfing didn’t just change my life—it saved it. It pulled me out of sadness, out of depression, and out of a place I wasn’t sure I’d escape.

Surfing means mental health, peace, presence, and connection. It’s where I find strength, friendships, humility, and moments that remind me I’m still here—and that I want to be.

Catch me at @corygirly

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