Where on earth is the boat?! Di’s Nicaraguan surf adventure

👋 Hey, I’m Di—and this is my Nicaraguan surf story.

🌅 06h00 Call time: Return to Dairy Queen

06h00 am and we're heading out on the boat again to Dairy Queen. I had a great session here yesterday - got 3 memorable, long rides in-between a bunch of forgettables and Steve & our host, Marsh, even captured a couple on video.

So all-in-all, I'm feeling pretty confident, but nevertheless somewhat apprehensive, as Marsh is predicting it's gonna be a lot bigger today, maybe 10 foot...

⚠️ Warnings & prep

I am warned to paddle out in the channel and only then, make my way across to the lineup "and when the BIG SETS come, paddle hard right towards the channel or you're gonna get smashed..."

I don my protective helmet and paddle out, my heart beating loudly in my chest.

💥 Wipeout #1

After waiting & watching a while, I paddle for what looks like a goodie, but as I go to pop up, I realize it's super steep and instead of leaping to my feet and angling sideways, I hesitate for a split second, bumble up, go straight down the wave, lose it at the bottom and get smashed head over heels in the tumble dryer...

🫣 Stuck, tangled, gasping

I'm being tossed around for what seems like forever and my leash is wrapped multiple times around my leg. The more I'm trying to kick up, the more I'm being sucked down and the tighter my leash becomes. It has me trapped and I'm running out of air...

Just as I swallow a huge gulp of water, my head pops out. I'm gagging & gulping air simultaneously, trying to untangle the leash and reel in my board, aware that there's another huge wave almost upon me.

🌀 Round Two

No chance to paddle for the channel. I loosen the leash and just have time to take a deep breath, before I get smashed again...

I do my best to relax, not panic. I know I'll come up eventually and I know from my daily Kundalini Yoga practice, that I can hold my breath for at least a minute...

🧘‍♀️ Find calm, paddle hard

When I surface I pray for calm so that I can retrieve my board and paddle out of harms way, but no such luck. The next monster is upon me—"Oh God, I can't do this again!", deeeeep breath & I'm under...

The powerful white water churning over me, tugging at my leash. "Please, please, don't let it break... It's ok, it's ok, stay calm, relax, relax..."

💨 Finally a lull

I allow the water to have its way with me, then reel in my board and turn around to face the music. Thank God, there's a brief lull, but I can see another set rising up.

I slide back on my board and paddle for the channel like a woman possessed. I make it round, barely, before the next set hits, crashing past me like thunder, but I'm safe now in calm waters.

😵‍💫 Where’s the boat?!

I feel totally shattered, coughing & spluttering like I've swallowed half the ocean, in between breathing like the bellows. I can't do this. I need to get back to the boat.

But then it dawns on me. There is no boat. They've gone fishing & left us here.

💪 The Big Girl Panties go on

There's nothing for it, but to put on my Big Girl Panties and paddle back to the lineup. I try again & again and I get crushed again and again. Each time I make it back to the channel, I'm so relieved...

The boat's not back yet, so there's no lifeline. It's either sit wide & watch or get in there. I get in there.

🪼 Jellyfish invasion

Then suddenly I feel a stinging sensation on my leg, then the other leg, then my arms, hands, feet, lips! Shit, jellies! I am on fire.

I turn to the girl next to me: "Are you being stung?" "Yes! This is BAD. I'm outta here", she takes off, heading for a boat bobbing nearby.

I can hear grumblings all down the line. Everyone is burning. A whole Smack of jellyfish has washed into the surf zone.

Ashley paddles up, "Shit, a big one just wrapped itself around my leg!" I'm seriously contemplating hitching a spot on the boat bobbing nearby, when the sweet sight of Dos Hermanos comes into view.

🛟 Back on the boat

To Hell with Big Girl Panties! Once back on the boat, we compare welts. Ashley seems to be the worst hit, with angry, red markings all over her arms & legs.

Thankfully the stinging doesn't last too long and we're distracted by the great haul of fish in the cooler box. Ceviche & fish tacos for dinner—Yea! We've earned it!

😮‍💨 Confidence check

Definitely a very challenging session and one that's left my confidence properly shattered.

Back to the mellow waves at Mag Rock tomorrow, where I caught loads of great rides on Day 1. I need to spend a little time in my comfort zone before putting the Bridget Joneses back on.

But put them on I will, because as Marsh reminds me:

"You've gotta get crushed to crush it!"