- The Wipeout Weekly
- Posts
- šāāļø Your gutās not wrong and your hips donāt lie š«
šāāļø Your gutās not wrong and your hips donāt lie š«
Plus: beginner waves in Senegal, and a little something called surferās eye

š So nice to see you again! Iām not saying this newsletter is a form of procrastination. But Iām also not not saying itās an excuse for not going out today. š Tomorrowāfor sure!
šāāļø Letās surf:
Trust your gut when surfing š„½
Plage de Yoff is not crowded šļø š
Hips donāt lie šš»
Surferās eye šļø
Midlife is the best time to start surfing š°ļø
SURFODRAMA
š± Trust your gut when youāre still figuring it out

When I see a wave bigger than 3 feet and a busy lineup, Iām like: no thank you, and turn my back to the ocean. Okay, not quite.
But the fear of a bad wipeoutāor colliding with another surfer or a rogue boardākeeps me safe in the whitewash.
Because my gut knows that with my slow-as-a-snail pop-up, Iām a liability.
Thereās this idea floating around in surf culture (and honestly, life) that hesitation is the enemy. That if you just go for it, youāll progress faster.
Donāt let fear stand in the way of the best wave of your life etc. You knowāthat kind of trash talk.
But hereās the thing: your gut is usually on your side.
If youāre hesitating at the top of a wave, pulling back at the last second, or skipping sets that feel too big and heavyāit might not be a lack of courage. It might be your body telling you youāre not ready. Or that the conditions arenāt right for the surfer you currently are.
And thatās okay.
Volumes have been written on how to manage fear in surfingāhow to get over it. You know the advice: acknowledge and accept your fear, visualize success, breathe deeply.
Dude. Iām just trying to concentrate on my pop-up. I donāt have time to do box breathing exercises on a moving wave.
Yes, pushing past fear can be empowering. But overconfidenceāespecially when your skills arenāt quite thereācan lead to wipeouts, injuries, or worse: it can put you off surfing for good.
Let me tell you about overconfidence.
Iām 16 years old and Iām the best glider pilot in the universe. Or so I thought. Iām blaming Top Gun.
I go for a little ride. Get lostābecause map reading, not my thing. Iām running out of thermal juice, so I land in a potato field instead of an airfield. When my friends come to retrieve me and my wholesome little glider, they inspect my homemade landing pad and are not impressed.
Apparently, I landed just behind a row of 20-meter trees and in front of a massive ditch.
Translation: That couldāve ended really, really, really badly. Pure luck it didnāt.
Iāve carried a healthy dose of fear ever since.
So yeah. Listen to your fear. Not all of it is irrational.
You can build your confidence through reps, small wins, and forgiving waves. Let your instinct keep you safeāwhile you build the skills to back your ambition to be the best surfer in the universe.
SURF SPOT SPOTLIGHT
Plage de Yoff is not crowded. Yet. šļø

Tired of overcrowded breaks, but yearning surfing without a wetsuit? A trip to West Africa may be just the ticket.
Plage de Yoff is one of Dakarās most accessible and consistent surf spots, located just north of the city center. Itās known for its long stretch of beach, mellow beach break waves, and a growing surf scene thatās welcoming to beginners.
š The surf
Yoff is a classic beach breakāsandy bottom, gentle peaks, and lots of room to spread out. The waves here are friendly, especially at mid-tide when they tend to be softer and easier to catch.
Ok, hereās the bad news.
šæ Water quality
Mixed bag. Yoff doesnāt have the same industrial runoff as some other parts of Dakar, but local trash and seasonal pollution can be an issue after heavy rains. Aim for mid-morning surfs when the tide is cleanest, and check with local surf schools for current conditions.
š Wardrobe
Warm water nearly all yearāboardies or a bikini and rash guard will do. In winter months (NovāFeb), you might want a shorty or spring suit, especially on windy days. The sun can be intense, so bring that reef-safe sunscreen.
āļø Best time for beginners to go
October to May is your sweet spot. Thatās Senegalās dry season, and the waves are generally smaller and cleaner. June to September brings heavier swell and windier afternoons, which can be a challenge for newer surfers.
ā ļø Hazards
Yoff is mellow overall, but watch for strong rips during big swells or low tide. Also, stay clear of the fishing boats and nets occasionally launched from shore - itās a working beach after all.
š Rentals + lessons
Yoff has several solid surf schools offering board rentals and beginner lessons in both French and English. Many are run by local surfers who know the break well and are keen to help you progress safely.
š When youāre not surfing
Stroll the fish market or watch the pirogues (colorful fishing boats) launch at sunrise
Visit the vibrant Yoff village for local food and community vibes
Day trip to Ćle de GorĆ©e for a mix of history and beauty
š§³ Solo friendly?
Totally. Yoff is laid-back and affordable, with guesthouses, surf hostels, and welcoming locals. Itās not a party hub, but itās a great place to learn to surf, soak up Senegalese culture, and enjoy warm vibes on and off the beach.
WEEKLY POPUP
Shakira was right. Hips donāt lie. šš»

Blimey. Even the New York Times is talking big about hip mobility. And here I was thinking itās only beneficial for a better pop-up.
Letās start with the non-fun bit. 1 in 10 women and 1 in 17 men (in the USA) will get a hip replacement during their lifetime. This is waaaaay higher than I thought. Most common reason? Wear and tear due to gradual breakdown of cartilage in the joint. Sometimes arthritis, sometimes genetics.
Bad news is that you canāt always completely prevent hip joint wear and tear (especially from aging or genetics), but you can absolutely reduce your risk and slow down degeneration. And thatās done by exercisingāyay, surfing is low impactābuilding muscle strength and making sure that your hips arenāt tight or out of alignment.
Plus, itās absolutely possible to surf after a hip replacement.
āThis was my first time surfing ā 13 weeks after surgery! Woohoo⦠this girl is still surfing š«¶ā ā Brandy
āMy husband has had both hips replaced and he surfs better now than before!ā ā Sheila
āBest decision I made. I was back on my board in 9 weeks!ā ā Karen (got her hip replaced at 46)
If youāre too young to care about getting your hip replaced, let me tell you that hip mobility is crucial for surfingāwhether you're popping up, carving, or just trying to stay comfortable during long paddle-outs.
You would not believe what else beside the pop-up, you rely on your hips to provide. Something as simple as getting in and out of your car, or getting in and out of your bed, or leaning down to pick up all the coffee beans youāve just spilled.
As for surfing, hip mobility is everything.
The pop-up:
You need good hip flexion and rotation to bring your front foot through and land in a balanced stance quickly or do to a proper explosive pop-up where youāre literally swinging your legs below your body.Wave riding:
Maneuvering on the wave requires fluid hip rotationāespecially when trimming, bottom turning, or cross-stepping on a longboard.Paddling posture:
Tight hips can affect your lower back and pelvis alignment, so if you paddle for longer than a few minutes, you will feel it.Injury prevention:
Hip immobility affects other parts of your body, it can lead to strain in the knees, low back, and even shoulders. If your hips donāt move well, your body finds less efficient (and often riskier) ways to get things done.
Yeah, yeah. I have ZERO problems with my hip mobility. My hips are very fine thankyouverymuch.
Oh really? š Here are just a few signs that your hip mobility needs work.
You canāt sit cross-legged comfortably
Try it. No cheating and leaning against the wall! And now rock left and right for a good measure. Feeling good?
Your low back aches after standing or walking
I try to prevent sitting down by using a standing desk, and holy potato, my back hurts after a couple of hours and I need to sit down again. Or when I go to see a concert and Iām standing up for the duration. Agony.
Your knees collapse inward during squats
If you donāt squats often, you will notice that you need to consciously push your knees outward. Chances are if you squat a lot, you donāt have this problem at all.
You struggle to fully extend your hips when standing
What this means is that your hips donāt open all the way into the upright, neutral position when youāre standing, and you look like youāre slightly leaning forward and standing tall feels a bit awkward.
And now that you know that you could work harder on your hip mobility, hereās every single SIMPLE exercise I could find that will help you improve it.
Leg swings back and forth
90/90 seated hip switches
Worldās Greatest Stretch
Standing hip circles
Cossack squats
Deep goblet squats with pause at bottom
Hip bridges
Single-leg glute bridges
Yoga flow: cat-cow ā lunge ā lizard ā pigeon ā forward fold
Lateral lunge
RDLānever knew it stood for Romanian Deadlift!āyou will need a weight for it
If you want to try some pop-up specific ones, you will need sliders or a smooth surface and a towel for most of these.
Squatting 90/90s
Slider climbers
Slider pikes
Slider reverse and lateral lunges
Slider circles
Slider roll-outs (hips up!)
And now, tada, for the most idiotic hip exercise in the universe (I genuinely donāt think the gyms should encourage it, I always feel like Iām just about to hurt myself pretty bad).
Rowing machine pike-ups!
GIRLSā RECS
šļø Surferās eye sounds poetic, looks awful š«£

Laird Hamilton is known for his striking blue eyes. No idea if he ever had a surferās eye.
Oh no. Yet another ābad thingā that can happen to you when you surf. Itās called Surferās Eye ā not to be confused with Surferās Ear, yet another bad thing that can happen to you in the surf. Lucky us.
šļø What is Surferās Eye?
Surferās Eye ā itās this totally uncute, sometimes itchy, occasionally freaky growth that can develop on your eyeball from too much sun, wind, and saltwater exposure. Fun!
The medical name is pterygium (pronounced tur-IJ-ee-um, you know with the silent p). Itās a benign but potentially vision-affecting growth of fleshy tissue that starts on the white part of your eye and can creep toward the cornea (the clear center).
Itās not a tumor
Itās not contagious
And it doesnāt mean youāre going blind
But... itās not something you want to develop
Itās not a surfers-only disease, but we get it because weāre literally staring at UV-reflecting water for hours on end, without blinking. Add wind, salt, sand, and dry air into the mix, and you've got a perfect storm for your eye to go into protective overdrive.
Itās most common in tropical and subtropical climates (think: California, Australia, Indo, Hawaii), and tends to affect people who spend a ton of time outdoors without adequate eye protection.
Most of us are unlikely to get surferās eye ā simply because we donāt spend a huge amount of time in the water. Iām not even sure if Laird Hamilton ever suffered from the condition.
But but but... if youāre going for 100 days in a row (š surf challenge folks), try this:
š§¢ Surf in early mornings or late afternoons (lower UV exposure)
š§“ Use lubricating eye drops
š¶ļø Wear sunglasses out of the water
š§¢ Consider a surf hat in the lineup (yes, even if it messes with your vibe)
The WIPEOUT WEEKLY POD
Why midlife is the best time to start surfing with Inessa Love ā¤ļø
This week, we chatted with Inessa Love of Sassy Silver Surfers. The stories this girl can tell. Nothing like this ever happens to me!
We talk the slow burn of falling in love with surfing, being told she didnāt belong in the lineup, and creating a community of older women surfers. Follow Inessa for more stories and fitness tips on surfing when older. DM her for her free yoga routine that works hip mobility!
Listen to The Wipeout Weekly on your fav pod platform or here.
ā¬ļø Aaaaaaand that was the last wave of the week!
If a friend forwarded this and you liked it, hit subscribe & join us! We will see you all next week! š
š How was this week's edition of The Wipeout Weekly?Drop in with your pick š |
Reply